FAQ - Frequently asked questions (English)

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What does „Raw“ mean for the frames?

Raw frames, buildkits or complete bikes come with a raw aluminium finish. That means the frame is neither anodized, nor painted, nor powder coated. It’s just pure aluminium. But, in order to make it look pure aluminium, it is brushed. That means the texture is slightly brushed, because the dust from welding has been removed.

Are there still frames from the first batch available?

Please refer to the Alutech website. There you can check the availability of every version, that means which color and which framesize is still available within the first production run that ships in April 2016.

When can delivery of the frames be expected?

The frames are due for shipment from Germany in April 2016.

When are complete bikes and build-kits going to be delivered?

Build-kits will be shipped alongside the frames in April 2016. Complete Bikes will be assembled in Germany from April on and shipped to customers, ready to ride.

Can I build my ICB2.0 as a 650b+, B+ or 27,5+ Bike?

Generally: That's difficult, as the bike was designed as a 650b-Bike. But apparently for many people tires don't need to be very wide in order to call them "Plus". So if your definition of "Plus" fits within 75 mm width and diameter of 732 mm, you could give it a go. However, these are the absolute maximum values - you should allow mud clearance! We suggest a maximum width of 64 mm! and a diameter of 720 mm in order to keep things rolling.

Service: A WTB Trailblazer 27.5 x 2.8" on a 35 mm rim comes to 66 mm width and 723 mm diameter. That'll leave you with 4.5 mm clearance on either side of the tire.

Which framesize should I get?

That's a tricky one, and one of the favorites. We suggest you to check how long your seattube should be in order to make room for a dropper post and to be long enough for your legs. If multiple options seem to fit, the length of the bike should make the call. We are fans of short stems, and if you're too, you might want to opt for the bigger frame size.

Why is there no bottle cage mount?

Short answer: Because, compared to an efficient and supple rear suspension, that mount scored low on the requirement list, when we had a public vote. So we designed the suspension first instead of around a water bottle. If you need to get one, it might be an idea to put one of these on the top tube. Or fit a really small bottle within the front triangle. A backpack is the easiest solution, though :)



Have more? Just type them in the reply section below and we'll try to help.
 
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Maxle with 12x 1.75 tread.

You see the Sram order-number on site 19 of the thread: " Wartezimmer praxis dr. ICB 2.0"
 
unfortunately not, u need an axle with the maxle standard

Maxle with 12x 1.75 tread.

You see the Sram order-number on site 19 of the thread: " Wartezimmer praxis dr. ICB 2.0"

I just bought this one, KCNC Quick & Easy:

KCNC-Steckachse-Quick-Easy-E-Thru-12-x-142-mm.jpg


Tested today on my current frame, seems ok, it works like the DT Swiss RWS, simple and effective, the red button is for repositioning the lever after tightening. The only remark I can make is that the lever stays wider than the Maxle (articulated) one, so a little more exposed.
Great bargain from r2-bike, 24€, I bought 2 for less the price of 1 Maxle Ultimate ;)
https://r2-bike.com/KCNC-Thru-Axle-Quick-Easy-Maxle-12-x-142-mm
 
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I received the frame with the Fox Evol X damper.
No extra volume spacers are provided, it's normal?
There's any volume spacer already inside the damper?
 
Hi, I love this frame for the low top tube (like a Kona Process 134) and the threaded bottom bracket and the fact that you can buy frame only (unlike the Process). I have a couple of questions.

  1. Is there any reason other than looks (color) to choose the anodized frame over the raw frame? Is it more durable in any way?
  2. I read somewhere that the suspension system has been designed around a 30t chainring. That seems a poor match with a Shimano hub as these only accept cassettes with 11t as smallest sprocket. Would the suspension performance be hugely compromised if I'd run a 32t chainring? And if I'd run a 32t oval chainring (smallest diameter comparable with 30t, largest with 34t)?
  3. Out of the two bundled shocks (RS and Fox), the option with Fox is considerably more expensive. Does the suspension work that much better with that shock? Could someone who has ridden both configurations describe the difference?
  4. I understand that this frame calls for heavy low speed compression damping like the factory tuned bundled RS and Fox offerings or a shock with a large adjustment range like the CCDB. I've got an '07 Magura Hugin shock kicking around (HSC, LSC, R and air pressure adjustment). Would that be suitable or are modern shocks really that different?
  5. The spec of the complete bike doesn't quite match the "condition 3" description stating jumps should be limited to 2ft (61cm). That's XC stuff. The spec list includes much bigger hitting stuff iike a 150mm Pike fork, Magura MT7 brakes, 180mm minimum rear rotor. That's more enduro territory. So I'm confused. Can this bike be ridden in a way that justifies a Pike fork or would something like a Revelation be a better match as the frame is holding it back?
  6. This may not receive official approval, but has anyone tried this frame with a 26" rear wheel and a 27.5" front wheel? I know bb height could become an issue but that of course also depends on bike handling.
Thanks anyone who could shed some light on (some of) these questions. Cheers!
 
Hi,

I can not comment on 1) and 6) but I will try to answer the rest:)

2) the complete bikes come with 32t. I have never tried a 30t ring but 32 and 28 both work perfectly fine on my bike

3) I have only tried the Fox but I have not heard any complaints about the rockshox. I suppose on long descents the piggyback of the fox might be an advantage…

4) I would get a new shock if I were you. Nine years is a lot when it comes to suspension technology. Plus the shocks that alutech offer were chosen with that particular frame in mind.

5) does this look like 61cm: http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/wartezimmer-praxis-dr-icb2-0.776259/page-16#post-13479746 :) Ok, it is a prototype, but still… I suppose they had to give some number for warranty reasons.
 
Hi Walross, thanks a lot for your reply.

2. Glad to hear. I recall Seb mentioned it somewhere in the Pinkbike comment section, that the suspension was designed around a 30t chainring. Glad to hear it works fine with the 32t ring. Interestingly, the Erdgeschoss complete bike comes with a 30t chainring and a 10-42t sprocket whereas indeed the complete with Oberschoss configuration comes with a 32t chainring and a 9-44t sprocket. Either the Obergeschoss customer is so much stronger or the bike is so much ligher to climb ;).

3. Yeah there could be some confusion there. Both configurations should come with a Piggyback shock (Erdgeschoss with the RockShox Monarch Plus RC3 DebonAir) and that's also what's being pictured both with the Erdgeschoss complete as well as when you buy frame only. That said, there are also pictures of the Erdgeschoss complete with a RS shock without piggyback. So it should probably not be that much worse on longer descends. Still curious what others have to say about the difference.

4. Yeah, I guess you're right. I might just go for the RS offering (depending on the answer to question 3) and I could always put the Hugin in just to see how it works. This low bike just looks like it is screaming for 26" wheels but I know bb height is low already. My shock is 200x50 (instead of the recommended 200x57) so as it the "linkage" seems to have a rising rate configuration I thought my available travel would drop to somewhere between 110 and 115mm. Just right to make up for that difference when I bottom out. Should be nippy like that.

5. Glad to hear. I wouldn't necessarily buy it as an out and out bikepark beast, but the 2ft limit came across as a bit odd with a spec that would suit a full enduro bike. I wouldn't buy a complete as I have enough good (though old) stuff kicking around. But it seems like I can get the Magura Thor (140mm travel, 32mm stanchions) in as well as the Magura Wotan (160mm travel, 36mm stanchions).
 
Ah, you are right, the Erdgeschoss comes with 30t... I thought it was 32 on both bikes. By the way, as you were asking about a 32t oval ring: there is one guy in the german section who is doing that and he has no issues. I meant to add that in my last reply but forgot...

If 26" capability is an issue for you, there was a discussion about making a different yoke that was designed for 26" wheels. here is the link:
http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/26-umbau-icb2-0.790253/
However I am not sure if it ever made it into production. The company is called bikeyoke, maybe drop them a mail and ask if they really went ahead and did it.
 
Glad to hear about 32t oval. Even though I mostly ride a small steel hardtail most of the time, my fully is a 2007 Cannondale Prophet. Single pivot, designed to run with a triple crankset (though I immediately went down to two and a bashring). No need to be too picky about a few teeth if I'm already down to a single ring indeed.

Cool to hear about that 26" link. You guys make mods for everything, don't you. Seems like a true open source project ;). That said, no need for me to go that far. It is just that I still have some rims kicking around that I could use to build a wheel for that. Should be fun for smoother rolling terrain that can be pumped, 26" with 115mm travel in the rear should be fun. And Shimano hubs aren't expensive so it was more an option to explore than a must. Just because I own the rims and the shorter travel shock already. But no doubt if I'm going to take such a bike to the Alps, I'd better get full travel and the big wheels to match.
 
What torque is required at which screw of the frame?
Always use a loctite medium-tight (except for the threads of the main bearing shaft & preloading screw from the main bearing [there assembly paste / grease])
- Screw in the main bearing shaft with 12 Nm
- Tighten the adjusting screw from the main bearing only until the rear body is free from play
- Tighten the clamping screw to the main bearing shaft with 8 Nm
- Tighten the screws of the damper extension to the seat struts with 8 Nm
- fix the bolt of the damper extension with 10 Nm
- Tighten the bolts on the front damper mount with a maximum of 5 Nm. They serve only to keep the part free of play. The force is transferred positively!
- Tighten the cable guides with 2.5 Nm
 
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Does anyone know the exact specification of the e*thirteen TRSr 27,5" wheels/rims? What is the inner diameter and weight?
 
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Hi all. I'm new to the forum and I can't read most of it since I don't read German.
I'm here because I'd like more informations about the ICB 2.0 bike, particulary the steel version.
Are the bike geometries publicly available?
 
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