Scott Spark RC (2022) - Wartezimmer

[lesoudeur]

I also find the frame timelessly beautiful. I haven't seen any major changes from other manufacturers over the years either. Perhaps the move away from Brain to Remote or FA at Specialized.

I treated my Scott Spark RC to a set of Elitewheels carbon wheels and replaced the Race Face bottom bracket and crankset with XTR BB9441A and XTR M9125 cranks in 170mm.

Aside from the fact that the bottom bracket was noticeably tighter and I had to hit it much harder than I expected, everything went very smoothly. I find the 170mm cranks significantly more comfortable compared to the previously installed 175mm ones.

If the lateral play in the rear swingarm doesn't reappear, I'll be very happy with the Scott. Visually, it's still one of the top bikes for me, and it rides great.

However, having to disconnect all the cables to change the headset bearings is a real pain.

Interesting comment about changing the length of the cranks to 170mm. What height are you and is your bike a size L? When I changed my headset bearings I found that I could pull out the cables of the rear derailleur and shock without removing the housing so making it easier. The dropper cable just needs disconnecting together with the rear brake which just required a quick bleed on reconnection. Could not agree more about the visual appeal of the Spark and I still get riders being really impressed by how it really looks "in the flesh" as they have only seen photos. Bike porn was one observation

 

[gino87]

Interesting comment about changing the length of the cranks to 170mm. What height are you and is your bike a size L? When I changed my headset bearings I found that I could pull out the cables of the rear derailleur and shock without removing the housing so making it easier. The dropper cable just needs disconnecting together with the rear brake which just required a quick bleed on reconnection. Could not agree more about the visual appeal of the Spark and I still get riders being really impressed by how it really looks "in the flesh" as they have only seen photos. Bike porn was one observation

I'm 189cm tall and ride a size L frame with a 9cm cockpit.

I find the shorter crank arm much more comfortable for my knees, and the hip angle is more comfortable.

 

[lesoudeur]

I use SRAM, but I think 5k kilometers of racing and training is okay for the BB to be replaced after dusty and muddy conditions on a mtb? What I am less happy about is the wear on the Dub spindle which is aluminum... This however seems to be 'normal'.

For the headset cups: Yes, I repaced them, even before the bearing was worn, as they have become a bit loose. For example: When disassembled the bearings would fall out of them instantly. With the new cups the bearings have a very light press fit in them. I also switched to the 0° cups.

Yes that is one advantage of the Shimano cranks with a 24mm diameter steel spindle. I also replaced the cups when I changed the headset bearings out and also rotated them to get the HT angle of 66 degrees but found that the front wheel was too "floppy" going uphill so reversed them back. I have been tempted to try the 0 degree cups as I already have some spare. Do you prefer them in comparison with 67.2 degree? When replacing the cups do you use any grease/carbon paste because the Scott Tech manual does not reference using anything (I only used a very light smear of grease to keep them in place in the frame whilst fitting the fork).

 

[FerrisFast]

Yes that is one advantage of the Shimano cranks with a 24mm diameter steel spindle. I also replaced the cups when I changed the headset bearings out and also rotated them to get the HT angle of 66 degrees but found that the front wheel was too "floppy" going uphill so reversed them back. I have been tempted to try the 0 degree cups as I already have some spare. Do you prefer them in comparison with 67.2 degree? When replacing the cups do you use any grease/carbon paste because the Scott Tech manual does not reference using anything (I only used a very light smear of grease to keep them in place in the frame whilst fitting the fork).

I use a little bit a grease on the outside of the bearings. Just to avoid corrosion on the outside.

I remember that I liked the slacker feeling of the 0° cups (66,6°?) compared to the previous 67,2° at the first ride with the new cups. But the difference was very marginal and I could not say that I noticed any drastic differences in handling.

 

[FerrisFast]

Ich überlege mein Spark von AXS auf mechanische Schaltung umzubauen (das Schaltwerk macht Probleme). Verwendet das Spark einen normalen Bowdenzug und eine normale Schalthülse, oder wie für das Twin-Loc die dünne Variante?
Sind die Bedienkräfte trotz interner Zugführung auch beim Schalten in Ordnung? Beim Twin-Loc und beim Dropper habe ich damit keine Probleme.

 

[Pixelsign]

(das Schaltwerk macht Probleme)

Hat zwar nichts mit der eigentlichen Frage zu tun aber welche Probleme hast du damit?

 

[lesoudeur]

I'm considering converting my Spark from AXS to a mechanical shifter (the derailleur is giving me trouble). Does the Spark use a standard cable and shift sleeve, or the thinner version like the Twin-Loc?
Are the shifting forces acceptable despite the internal cable routing? I have no problems with the Twin-Loc or the dropper post.

Yes in standard spec it uses the 4mm housing and 1.1mm s/s cable.
In my Spark with XTR mechanical I actually use a Jagwire 3mm housing (same as dropper) and 1.1mm cable. I used the hose end caps that are for the Jagwire 3mm housing but terminate as a 4mm hose. I tried this to make it easier to thread though to and out of the rear chain stay and I also was able to feed it though the headset spacers down the frame tube etc without having to undo the fork stem. After slackening the lower two shock bolts I pulled the shock back and was able to thread the hose through the rubber bellows into the chain stay. I used an angled pick and a magnet to get the hose from the chain stay and through the hole. Note the crossover at the BB. Changed it a year ago and shifting has been faultless.

 

[Panigale1299]

Ich überlege mein Spark von AXS auf mechanische Schaltung umzubauen (das Schaltwerk macht Probleme). Verwendet das Spark einen normalen Bowdenzug und eine normale Schalthülse, oder wie für das Twin-Loc die dünne Variante?
Sind die Bedienkräfte trotz interner Zugführung auch beim Schalten in Ordnung? Beim Twin-Loc und beim Dropper habe ich damit keine Probleme.

Jagwire gibt sogar an, dass die Dünne Variante nicht für Schaltsystem verwendet werden soll.

"Der Edelstahl-Innenzug ist wegen seines geringen Durchmessers von 0,8 mm nicht für die Montage an Schaltsystemen geeignet."

 

[lesoudeur]

Jagwire even states that the thin version should not be used for shifting systems.

"The stainless steel inner cable is not suitable for mounting on switching systems due to its small diameter of 0.8 mm."

Yes they do but I use the 3mm housing with a normal 1.1mm gear cable and have had no problems at all.