Fox DYAD RT2 Tuning - Ideen bzw. richtiger ansatz??

[RGTec]

Anhang anzeigen 535186 diese sind KEY beim service!

Are those needed to fill the positive chambers?
Do you remember the sequence to fill and bleed the oil? Which oil would you suggest?
I imagine you went trial-and-error to find the exact quantity of oil?
My dyad needs a service and I might try to do it myself in a near future...
Did you also make special keys to disassemble the negative chamber and spool chamber or it wasn't necessary?

 

[radiomir79]

Are those needed to fill the positive chambers?
Do you remember the sequence to fill and bleed the oil? Which oil would you suggest?
I imagine you went trial-and-error to find the exact quantity of oil?
My dyad needs a service and I might try to do it myself in a near future...
Did you also make special keys to disassemble the negative chamber and spool chamber or it wasn't necessary?

no, I did not go the try way., Im working on suspension for more than 20 years.. you need the bleed adaptor to fill the shock. I almost 100% use a vacuum pump I build., but it is doable also with syringe. you dont need special tools to do a full service, because not everything has to be opened. all vital parts can be accessed from both sides. also the spool valve. the main problem, without the ifp tool is to estimate the ifp hight. some calculations are needed here. you need also 2 clips to hold the chambers when filling the dyad and a shaft clamp. all in all it takes 2 hours when you know what you are doing. but even if you do, you will need the bleed adaptor. without it, dont try it. not worth the hastle.

 

[RGTec]

no, I did not go the try way., Im working on suspension for more than 20 years.. you need the bleed adaptor to fill the shock. I almost 100% use a vacuum pump I build., but it is doable also with syringe. you dont need special tools to do a full service, because not everything has to be opened. all vital parts can be accessed from both sides. also the spool valve. the main problem, without the ifp tool is to estimate the ifp hight. some calculations are needed here. you need also 2 clips to hold the chambers when filling the dyad and a shaft clamp. all in all it takes 2 hours when you know what you are doing. but even if you do, you will need the bleed adaptor. without it, dont try it. not worth the hastle.

Luckily I found the seal kit online, and I have no problem machining tools and adaptors I was afraid that a vacuum pump was necessary, but I'm relieved to know it can be done with just a siringe
So the main problem left is ifp height... My plan was to measure it when disassemblying, then after assembly add or remove oil if I find it to much linear/progressive.
Any hint about oil viscosity? Of course I can't get hold of the original oil...
Thank you very much for your kind help! Just these days my dyad is starting to fail... I was also looking forward to take the chance to do some much needed shim stack tuning on it

 

[radiomir79]

Luckily I found the seal kit online, and I have no problem machining tools and adaptors I was afraid that a vacuum pump was necessary, but I'm relieved to know it can be done with just a siringe
So the main problem left is ifp height... My plan was to measure it when disassemblying, then after assembly add or remove oil if I find it to much linear/progressive.
Any hint about oil viscosity? Of course I can't get hold of the original oil...
Thank you very much for your kind help! Just these days my dyad is starting to fail... I was also looking forward to take the chance to do some much needed shim stack tuning on it

in case you are able to machine the adaptor (like I did) go with brass, not aluminium as material - way too soft - not worth it.
fox uses green w10 oil, I revalved all my dyads and now I use a 7.5 rock shox low cavitation oil. regarding the ifp hight - yes, you can try to fill it and try the progressivity., but honestly, filling the shock with a syringe takes way too long to do it 3-4 times til you find the correct hight. I set the ifps a bit lower than what fox is doing, than I use lower pressure in both chambers (2 classes lower than the table) but decreasing the ifp hight makes the shock bottomless. (still using full travel) when revalving, I used stronger valve spring and went a bit lower on the rebound for both chambers. I did increase the compression stack to compensate the usage of thinner oil. seems its working okay for me. be warned - without a vacuum pump you may spend a lot of time pumping and bleeding the dyad. there is a lot of trapped air inside. take your time and idealy let it sit for a while while bleeding. trust me, this is not a easy monarch or dhx air. this thing takes time. good luck.

 

[RGTec]

Great stuff! Thank you.

 

[bfm7eam]

in case you are able to machine the adaptor (like I did) go with brass, not aluminium as material - way too soft - not worth it.
fox uses green w10 oil, I revalved all my dyads and now I use a 7.5 rock shox low cavitation oil. regarding the ifp hight - yes, you can try to fill it and try the progressivity., but honestly, filling the shock with a syringe takes way too long to do it 3-4 times til you find the correct hight. I set the ifps a bit lower than what fox is doing, than I use lower pressure in both chambers (2 classes lower than the table) but decreasing the ifp hight makes the shock bottomless. (still using full travel) when revalving, I used stronger valve spring and went a bit lower on the rebound for both chambers. I did increase the compression stack to compensate the usage of thinner oil. seems its working okay for me. be warned - without a vacuum pump you may spend a lot of time pumping and bleeding the dyad. there is a lot of trapped air inside. take your time and idealy let it sit for a while while bleeding. trust me, this is not a easy monarch or dhx air. this thing takes time. good luck.

Hello guys, I am looking to service my DYAD, also. Can you tell me what IFP height you used ?

Thanks.

 

[Patso]

...kann gelöscht werden

 

[VanSan83]

Hätte einmal eine Frage. Würde jetzt auch gerne den Suntour hebel verbauen den Börner1982 oben gepostet hat. Habe ihn jetzt mal am ausgebauten ersatzdyad probiert und dabei ist mir aufgefallen dass der kabelweg kürzer ist als beim original hebel ist, sprich der Zapfen der zwischen den 2 Stufen des dämpfers umschaltet geht weniger weit rein.
Meine Frage wäre jetzt wie weit muss der zapfen denn versenkt sein um in den 95mm Modus umzuschalten. Und ist dass ein digitales System sprich wwnn der dämpfer in den anderen Modus umgeschaltet hat ist er komplett drin und es gibt kein "dazwischen" also dass irgendwie die beiden Kammern halb verbunden sind (im 160 mm Modus). Ich hoffe ihr versteht was ich meine

 

[Börner1982]

... also ich habe inzwischen bereits mehrere "Schalter" angetestet. Ich bin aber bei allen immer wieder zurück zur "2-Fach GripShift" (SRAM XX ; XO) Ansteuerung hängen geblieben.

Zu allen Schaltzügen/Schaltern kann ich dir nur folgendes empfehlen.
"Nimm einen "Seilzug-Spanner" und setzt ihn in/zwischen die Zugführungs-Leitung. Somit kannst du den Seilzug vorspannen, so dass du immer alles einstellen kannst bzgl. der Vorspannung des Zuges.

 

[vitoror]

[QUOTE = "MarioJaneiro, post: 10451365, membro: 120651"]
Divirta-se enquanto desmonta. Se você não conhece a profundidade de separação, então você deve calcular a característica em si, caso contrário, a probabilidade é grande de que seja muito íngreme ou superficial.
Tudo somado, não é fácil, e você deve conhecê-lo bem. caso contrário, você não poderá mais obtê-lo ou ele não funcionará corretamente depois.
você pode ajustá-lo em qualquer caso, mas o nível de pressão é um pouco suave demais do que muito punitivo. [/ QUOTE]

"Hi Mario,

You know IFP depth to Dyad RT2 85/140mm?

Thanks

 

[vitoror]

[QUOTE = "MarioJaneiro, post: 10574254, member: 120651"] Estou fazendo 10 maxima racing shock fluid. Você pode fazer a profundidade do pistão de separação de 53-58mm, dependendo da progressão desejada.
como você quer desabafar o seu amortecedor? isso não funciona muito bem sem os adaptadores corretos.
você já o dissecou? [/ QUOTE]

"Oi Mario,
Você conhece a profundidade do IFP no Dyad RT2 85 / 140mm?
obrigado

 

[RGTec]

I have been working a lot on my Dyad.
I made tools to disassembly it completely. Built a vacuum machine.
Made a ton of modifications, only a few are visible in the pictures:

 

[RGTec]

And this is my latest creature: a spacer that clips onto the shaft to prevent the shock to extend fully.
In this case, it removes the initial 20% of travel. the idea was to have the advantages of an hardtail on very steep, technical, slow terrain: easier to move the rear wheel around and hop, no catapult forward on super steep terrain, generally more fun. At higher speeds there is some loss of traction, I'll make it smaller next time (15% should be a better compromise)

 

[RGTec]

I have more projects in the pipeline. I'm working on a negative chamber extension to further improve suppleness in the beginning of the travel, if it works I will make a small batch for sale.

 

[RGTec]

Prototype for negative chamber extension done, installed (without removing the shock from the frame!) and ready for trail testing!

Just pumping in the backyard the difference is already amazing, honestly I thought I would feel something only on the trail. Very supple at the beginning, more support in the middle. Very coil-like. I don't think there are other shock on the market with a perfectly linear spring rate like this, except that Intend shock (which uses same technology as the dyad except it's push instead of pull)

It requires 25% more air pressure in all chambers to keep the same sag. Climb mode is unchanged. Only 20 grams.

 

[Frankentourer]

Very Interesting! It seemed to be very easy to install? Good test time with your bike!

 

[RGTec]

Very Interesting! It seemed to be very easy to install? Good test time with your bike!

Of all the mods I made to my dyad, this is the only one actually "marketable", in fact I have 2 more ready and I can make more That's why I'm testing it on the unmodified dyad that I was keeping as spare.

Installation: the travel indicator must be removed and placed on the right side beforehand. Remove air from the negative chamber, remove the valve, screw in the connector, screw the air tank on the connector, screw the valve on the tank, inflate + and - chambers. The zip tie is ugly but is needed to make sure the tank isn't ripped off accidentally in a crash.

 

[RGTec]

Working great, zero problems. On my other Dyad I made a compicated dual chamber setup (like manitou IRT, AWK etc) to achieve a linear spring curve but this does the same and it's infinitely simpler.

 

[AlexPB]

Hallo, welches Gewindemass haben die Bleedingöffnungen?

danke!